The KitchenAid cooktops we work on
KitchenAid sells three kinds of cooktop. There are gas models, radiant electric models and induction models. Most come in 30 inch and 36 inch widths. The five burner gas tops often ship with a griddle.
Some gas tops carry the Even-Heat Torch burner. Its flame spreads across the base of the pan. That burner has a tight set of ports, so a spill can block it fast.
KitchenAid also builds downdraft cooktops. A fan in the top pulls smoke down and out. The gas downdraft models can be set up duct-free with a kit. We repair the cooking side and the fan side on these.
Why a gas burner clicks and will not light
A clicking burner with no flame is the top gas complaint. Here is what we usually find.
- The burner cap sits crooked after a cleaning, so gas misses the spark.
- Food or cleaner has plugged the small ports near the igniter.
- The spark electrode has a cracked ceramic and the spark jumps to the wrong spot.
- A spark switch under a knob got wet and now clicks all day.
- The spark module is weak and only some burners fire.
Most of these parts are small. Each gets a meter test ahead of any swap.
Faults on electric and induction tops
A radiant zone that stays cold often has a burned out element under the glass. The switch behind the knob can fail too. If one zone blasts full heat at every knob position, that switch is the usual cause.
Induction tops work in a different way. A coil under the glass heats the pan itself. If the pan is not magnetic, the zone will not start. That is normal, not a fault. Real faults tend to sit in the power board or the touch panel. A cracked glass top also needs a new glass, since it is not safe to cook on.
The downdraft fan has a motor, a switch and a grease filter. A loaded filter makes the fan loud and weak. A failed motor hums or does nothing. We check the filter first, then the switch, then the motor. If your kitchen uses the duct-free kit, the charcoal filter needs changing now and then.
Checks to try before you book
A few things are worth a look first.
- Let a wet burner dry for an hour after a boil over, then try it.
- Seat each burner cap flat on its base.
- Check the breaker if the whole top is dead.
- Turn off the control lock on touch models.
- Try a pan that a magnet sticks to on an induction zone.
A gas smell while every knob is off means step outside and phone the gas utility before us.
How a cooktop visit works and what it costs
You can book online or call us. Cooktop bookings start at 6 AM and the last one is at 9 PM, weekends included. A tech can usually be there the day you ask.
Tracking down a KitchenAid cooktop fault costs $79 at a house. After testing, the tech gives you one fixed price. It covers parts and labor. Give the go-ahead and that $79 drops off your total. Cooktop techs carry a license and insurance, and each cleared a background check. A+ is an independent shop, not a KitchenAid service branch. A 30-day repair warranty comes with the cooktop repair.
Repair or replace a KitchenAid cooktop
A cooktop has few moving parts, so most repairs are worth doing. Igniters, switches, elements and fan motors cost far less than a new top. A new top may also need a new cutout in the counter. The close calls are a cracked induction glass on an old unit, or a failed power board plus other faults. We will price the fix and tell you straight.
Other KitchenAid cooking repairs near you
Cooktop jobs take us around Houston, the Chicago suburbs, greater Los Angeles, D.C. and the Virginia side of the Potomac. See our Illinois appliance repair page for the Chicago area. When the burners are part of a full stove, read about KitchenAid range repair. We also handle KitchenAid oven repair for the wall oven under your cooktop. The full list is on our KitchenAid appliance repair page. A cooktop that lights on the first click is the goal of every visit.